Tomato Sauce With Onion and Butter
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Nov 11, 2013
Marcella Cooks: Remembering Marcella Hazan by Mark Bittman.......
copied from the New YOrk Times Magazine............
EAT
Remembering Marcella
Melissa Lyttle for The New York Times
Marcella Cooks: Mark Bittman cooking with Marcella and Victor Hazan at their home in Florida.
By MARK BITTMAN
Published: November 6, 2013 53 Comments
Marcella Hazan, who died Sept. 29 at the age of 89, never intended to bring real Italian cooking to America. But no matter how accidental her impact, it can hardly be overstated. What Alice Waters did for restaurants, Hazan did for home cooks, demonstrating that the simple treatment of decent ingredients leads to wonderful dishes.
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In a way, Hazan was the anti-Julia Child, and Child had a sense of that. In a conversation shortly before her own death, Child said to me: “I don’t get the whole thing with Italian cooking. They put some herbs on things, they put them in the oven and they take them out again.” Exactly.
Born in Cesenatico, Italy, in 1924, Hazan did not have it easy early in her life. A childhood accident left her with a permanently damaged right arm, which restricted its use, and as recounted in her biography, “Amarcord: Marcella Remembers,” she spent the war years in trying circumstances. After marrying Victor Hazan in 1955, she moved to New York so that he could work in his family’s fur business. At the time, she spoke no English. In Italy she earned her doctorate in biology, but by the late ’60s she decided to pursue cooking instead.
When I visited and cooked with her and Victor just over two weeks before she died, Hazan told me that she learned almost nothing about cooking when she was young. The first class she took, in 1968, was devoted to Chinese cuisine, but when the course ended her classmates asked her to teach them Italian cooking. Her aptitude immediately became evident.
Encouraged by Victor, she began teaching classes from her home. (Victor, who has written extensively about wine, was Marcella’s usually unacknowledged translator and co-writer, not to mention her muse.) She had a talent for uncovering the soul of Italian cooking, and for making its essences readily understandable to the growing number of American home cooks who were flocking to Italy and its cuisine in the ’70s and ’80s. Soon there was a lunch with The Times’s Craig Claiborne and a visit from the Harper & Row editor Peter Mollman, who on the spot signed her up to write a cookbook.
“The Classic Italian Cookbook” was published in 1973; it was said to be the first to focus on “northern” Italian cuisine, but it was really much more than that. It was the first popular Italian cookbook to go beyond red sauce. In fact it wasn’t strictly northern (as if there even were a northern Italian cuisine), but more pan-Italian, a door into the wonders of Italian regional cooking, which Marcella and Victor were discovering even while they were writing about it.
By the time I was developing a career in food writing — say, 1983 — “Marcella” was as meaningful as “Julia” was a decade earlier. To me, Hazan was the more important author; it was cooking from her book that taught me to interpret Child’s work in a way that felt contemporary.
In 1997, I contacted her and Victor, asking if I could cook with her in Venice, where they were then living, for an article in The Times. We arranged to meet at the Rialto market, where she came flying along in sneakers, full of energy at a wrinkled (she was a lifelong smoker) but buoyant 73. I had never been to the Rialto with such a knowledgeable guide — few have — and she showed me the men who could dismember an artichoke in 10 seconds, the vendors whose porcini could be trusted to come from Italy, the radicchio of Treviso, the seafood of the lagoon.
We cooked pasta with clams, using the thumbnail-size telline she knew made the dish perfect. There were other creations, but most memorable was the market visit and the simple pasta that I was preparing with the woman who had taught it to me, even though I was a complete stranger. I left with the feeling of a successful family visit.
I stayed in touch with them over the years; once, Victor wrote to take me to task for a risotto shortcut I took on a video. This past summer, when I spent some time with old cookbooks, I came across Hazan’s. It was a joy revisiting recipes that had in part made me the cook I became. (Like Hazan, I learned little about cooking as a child.) On a whim, I emailed Victor and asked if I might travel to Florida, where they’d retired, and cook with them once again. We made arrangements almost right away.
On a warm, beautiful day, in their apartment overlooking the Gulf of Mexico, a much-diminished Marcella grew more talkative and energetic as we cooked. She worked on aroasted endive dish that, despite its ridiculous simplicity, is astonishing in its flavor and tenderness. (Do not skimp on oil, time, salt or pepper.) She helped make her famous tomato sauce, a slow-cooked affair of canned tomatoes, a lot of butter (again, don’t withhold) and half an onion. It’s perhaps the best tomato sauce you can make without doing much of anything, and we ate it on store-bought pasta, Hazan apologizing that she lacked the energy to make gnocchi. She showed me how to pound lamb chops for her splendid dish, and teased me for not doing it thoroughly enough. We planned to make anorange cake, but in the end, didn’t; dessert was ice cream topped with coffee grounds and whiskey.
Long before I cooked with her, I felt I knew Hazan through her cookbooks. By the end of this meal I felt again as if I had been reunited with family, and we discussed another visit when winter came. If Victor will have me, I’ll be there, and we can drink to the woman who was largely responsible — however unintentionally — for bringing real Italian food to the United States.
This article has been revised to reflect the following correction:
Correction: November 6, 2013
An earlier version of a description of a video with this article misstated the given name of Marcella Hazan’s husband. As the article correctly notes, he is Victor, not Vincent.
Google Doodle--Red White and Blue Honoring Our Veterans
Google Doodle--Red White and Blue Honoring Our Veterans
Nov 10, 2013
Jefferson Morley: What we still don’t know about JFK’s assassination
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The assassination of President John F. Kennedy endures as the pre-eminent mystery of American history. How a popular president came to be shot dead in broad daylight has never been explained by Washington in a way that the majority of the American people find credible. A new History Channel poll finds 71 percent of respondents reject the official story that one man alone killed JFK on Nov. 22, 1963.
The tragedy in Dallas has been the subject of six official inquiries over the past 50 years, hundreds of books and dozens of documentaries. By common consent, the release of 4 million pages of long-secret documents since Oliver Stone’s movie JFK has clarified some disputes about the events leading to Kennedy’s death.
Yet the new records also raise new questions.
Secret CIA files: The nature of the CIA’s interest in accused assassin Lee Harvey Oswald before Kennedy was killed is still shrouded in official secrecy, even after 50 years.
The story the CIA gave to the Warren Commission in 1964 — that Oswald had attracted only routine and sporadic attention — is erroneous. Documents released by a civilian review panel in the 1990s revealed that senior CIA officers had monitored Oswald closely between 1959 and 1963.
The officers most knowledgeable about Oswald before JFK was killed reported to Jim Angleton, a legendary spymaster who headed the agency’s counterintelligence staff, and Deputy Director Richard Helms, who would become known as The Man Who Kept the Secrets.
Both are dead, yet their actions are not yet subject to full disclosure. Last year, a CIA official acknowledged in a sworn affidavit that the agency retains 1,100 records related to JFK’s assassination that have never been made public.
These files are “not believed relevant” to JFK’s death, according to the CIA.
The online database of the National Archives indicates these records concern the operations of six CIA employees involved in the JFK story who reported to Helms and Angleton.
The still-secret documents are found in files generated by:
William K. Harvey, a legendary operative who oversaw the CIA’s efforts to assassinate Fidel Castro. Harvey’s contempt for John and Robert Kennedy cost him a high-ranking position in mid-1963.
David Phillips and Anne Goodpasture, career officers who monitored Oswald’s movements in Mexico City weeks before JFK was killed. In the ’70s, they testified that they learned about Oswald’s recent contacts with suspected Soviet and Cuban intelligence officers in October 1963.
Howard Hunt and David Morales, two swashbuckling operatives who made statements late in life that seemed to implicate themselves in JFK’s assassination.
All of these officers knew each other in 1963. All are deceased.
In the affidavit filed in federal court, CIA information coordinator Michelle Meeks asserted that the 1,100 documents must remain secret until at least October 2017 for reasons of “national security.”
Air Force One tapes: New details about the Pentagon’s response to JFK’s assassination have emerged in recent years, but a significant portion of the story is missing.
In October 2011, a previously unknown recording of Nov. 22, 1963, radio communications to and from Air Force One, the presidential jet, surfaced at a Philadelphia auction house. The tape was found in the estate of Gen. Chester Clifton, an aide to JFK who died in 1991.
The recording, donated to the National Archives, revealed how the Air Force immediately sent a plane to pick up Chief of Staff Curtis LeMay in Canada. LeMay, a harsh critic of JFK’s foreign policy, returned to Washington, where he may have attended JFK’s autopsy.
The conversations about LeMay’s movements were edited out of the shorter version of the Air Force One tape released by the LBJ Library in the ’70s.
Both the LBJ tape and the Clifton tape were taken from a longer Air Force One recording, according to Primeau Forensics, an acoustic engineering firm that worked with JFK researcher Bill Kelley to clean up and transcribe the recordings.
The available tapes capture 88 minutes of conversation. Kelly notes that the flight from Dallas to take JFK’s body back to Washington took almost four hours, or 240 minutes.
So it is virtually certain that there were other conversations to and from Air Force One that fateful day that were recorded but have never been heard. Even after 50 years, the real-time response of the Pentagon to the violent death of a commander in chief is not part of the public record.
In a new book on JFK, University of Virginia Professor Larry Sabato writes that it is “irresponsible” to accuse an agency of the federal government of orchestrating the assassination. “At the same time,” he argues, “it is impossible to rule out the possibility that a … cabal of CIA hard-liners, angry about Kennedy’s handling of Cuba and sensing a leftward turn on negotiations with the Soviets … took matters into their own hands.”
What these unknown chapters from the JFK story might reveal about the perennial conspiracy question will only be known if — and when — the CIA and Pentagon produce the missing JFK records.
Jefferson Morley is moderator of JFKFacts.org and author of “Our Man in Mexico: Winston Scott and the Hidden History of the CIA.” He wrote this for The Dallas Morning News. His email address is info@jfkfacts.org.
here are some interesting comments that fpollowed:
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It is outstanding to see that the Morning News agreed to publish Mr. Morley's piece, as he is quite knowledgeable about the documents the CIA has produced relative to the assassination and the records the Agency is still withholding, primarily due to his 10-year experience in litigation against the government pursuant to numerous Freedom of Information Act requests.
Interested readers should consult Mr. Morley's excellent website (JFKfacts.org) for many additional CIA disclosures that he was not able to address in this short piece, such as the Agency's ongoing attempts to block the release of information on George Joannides, a CIA employee who directed the activities of the anti-Castro DRE in New Orleans in 1963, which group Oswald had significant dealings with, and revelations concerning Clay Shaw and George deMohrenschildt, both of whom are now known to have had substantial ties to the CIA. |
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On November 22, 1963, a coup d’état by the highest echelons of the National Security State was accomplished with the brutal murder of President John F. Kennedy. Andrew Gavin Marshall has written an excellent and concise online summary article, “The National Security State and the Assassination of JFK,” which compliments the definitive, path-breaking research of author James W. Douglass in JFK and the Unspeakable: Why He Died and Why It Matters.
The “smoking gun” in the cover-up of the assassination is found in CIA Dispatch #1035-960 (available online). This was the crucial covert directive to the CIA’s Operation Mockingbird elite media assets to vigorously denounce critics of the Warren Commission Report as “conspiracy theorists.” This is when that particular derogatory term of denunciation and disinformation entered the national conversation in an attempt to cut off and stifle informed debate on the president’s murder because the path of evidence would lead directly to those elements behind the sinister cover-up. These facts are discussed in detail in Lance deHaven-Smith’s authoritative Conspiracy Theory in America (Austin, TX: University of Texas Press). Dr. Smith is a widely published scholar in peer-reviewed academic journals and is Professor in the Reubin O’ D. Askew School of Public Administration and Policy at Florida State University in Tallahassee. DeHaven-Smith has appeared on Good Morning America, the Today Show, NBC Nightly News with Tom Brokaw, CBS Nightly News with Dan Rather, the NewsHour with Jim Lehrer, and other national TV and radio shows. |
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Thanks to Dallas Morning News for publishing my piece. Its good to see a wide range of perspectives on the JFK story in the pages of the News.
There is currently a typo in the paragraph about CIA operatives:David Morales and Howard Hunt. It should read as follows: "Howard Hunt and David Morales, two swashbuckling operatives who made statements late in life that seemed to implicate themSELVES in JFK’s assassination." To be clear, Hunt and Morales did not implicate David Phillips and Anne Goodpasture in JFK's assassination. They each made reliably reported comments that suggested they had personally participated in a conspiracy to kill the president. |
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"So I'm the Patsy?" Lee Harvey Oswald as heard on news film while handcuffed and being led into a room.
I have no idea who killed Kennedy, if LBJ knew about it, etc. I only know it wasn't LHO and there ain't no such thing as a magic bullet. oldagg |
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