Fine Shirts: From Patterns to Production with Steve Pauling
Class Dates: August 2, 3 & 4 at The Ribbonerie in San Francisco, Friday afternoon, 1-4 PM; Sat., 9:30-5 PM; Sun. 10-4:30 PM.
Shirts, for both men and women, may be the most commonly worn garment
in the world. A well-detailed and skillfully fitted fine dress shirt may
be critical to the all-important first impression. Even a custom-fitted
casual shirt is a very visible garment, which through the comfort of
its fit and the finesse of its finish, gives the wearer ease and
confidence. Designing and constructing a shirt which compliments its
wearer is a long honored craft involving very specialized pattern
design, meticulous fabric-handling and skillful mechanical techniques.
Steve Pauling brings his background in architecture, furniture design
and construction into the fashion world. Over the course of decades, his
widely varied design experience and his analytical mindset have come
together in the fit and construction of the perfect shirt. This is his
first appearance on the national scene.
This 2.5-day workshop
begins with an overview of contemporary shirt designs for all body types
and occasions for men and women. In the Pattern segment of the class,
students will learn half-scale draping of a shirt front and back for the
perfect individual fit and how to transform the draped design into a
flat pattern. Different sleeve and cuff designs will be reviewed for
style and comfort before students draft a sleeve from their draped
bodice.
In the Production segment of the workshop, students
will learn special techniques for constructing beautiful, precise and
professional looking details found on the ‘bespoke’ level. Some of the
techniques demonstrated will include the three-roll collar for a
beautiful and stable appearance; the precise join between cuff and
sleeve without excess bulk; the professional looking encased armscye for
comfort and style; bagging the yoke and several techniques for flat
felled seams.
Following a series of demonstrations, students
will construct many of the special techniques, creating a book of
samples for subsequent use. A pattern kit for samples will be provided.
While all levels of experience are welcome, participants should have a
general knowledge of garment sewing skills.
PLEASE NOTE: The
maximum class enrollment is 18 students. We must have 12 enrolled by 5PM
on Monday, July 1, one month prior to the class. Without a minimum
enrollment, regretfully, the class will need to be cancelled and the
registration fees will be refunded. We recommend that airline tickets be
purchased after the minimum enrollment deadline in case of
cancellation. Hotel reservations can be made since the cancellation
window is usually 24-48 hours prior. Approximately 3 weeks before the
class, all registrants for the class will receive a welcome email
confirming registration, any updated information and information about
reserving a spot for dinner Saturday evening at the Magic Flute --
famous for their desserts!
Supply List
1. Pencils, red, blue and black
2. Rulers: Small French curve and 6” straight ruler
3. Sewing Machine (straight stitch is all that is necessary, with 5/8”
and 1/2” seam allowance markings), bobbins. Remember to bring the cords
and foot control. Those flying in may use one of the several extra
machines in the room.
3.1. Required sewing machine presser feet:
Rolled hemmers (approximately 3/16-1/4” or equivalent)
Regular adjustable zipper foot
3.2. Optional sewing machine presser feet:
Flat felling foot
Zig zag foot
4. Size 80/12 Universal machine needles
5. Standard 50 weight sewing thread (Dual Duty, Metrosenne, Gutterman,
Superior, etc.). Pre-wind a bobbin with thread. Any medium to light
color acceptable.
6. Hand sewing needles
7. Pins and holder/cushion
8. Smaller sharp scissors capable of precise trimming of fabric and threads.
9. Seam ripper
10. Fabric markers
11. Flexible sewing tape measure
12. Notepaper
13. 3 yds of muslin.
Still photographs are permitted but not video or audio recordings.
Location: The class will be held in the lower floor of the
The Ribbonerie, 3695
Sacramento St (at Spruce) San Francisco, CA, a charming ribbon store
that is quite famous in San Francisco. See this recent story about its
owner,
Paulette Knight or
The Ribbonerie and
Map.
Sacramento Street is a San Francisco treasure for fashion people, a
seriously wonderful street with unique shops and great restaurants. Check its treasures
here. It is well-known for its wonderful restaurants and easy lifestyle -- a great place to be!
Lodging: The Laurel Inn, 444 Presidio Avenue, San Francisco, CA 94115,
see website. The Inn is within walking distance of the class.
Maps & Directions Phone: 415-567-8467. If you would like to be informed of who else would be interested in sharing a room, send us an email.
Transportation: If flying in, the best advice is to take a shuttle from the airport to the Inn.
Parking: If
driving, parking is available on the street Saturday and Sunday.
Friday parking is best at the public parking garage located at
California and Locust.
